Report of the SAMC Friends trip to China from October 16 to 26, 2024.

Due to the short time available, the visit to Beijing focused, as a prelude to our trip to Northern China, on three architectural complexes, each associated with one of the three great religions that shaped the history of the Middle Kingdom. It began with the Temple of Heaven, an emblem of the city in the same way as the Forbidden City, with its rotunda crowned by a triple roof of blue glazed tiles. The Lama Monastery (Yonghe Gong), a former princely residence from the early 18th century^nd s., allowed friends of the museum to become familiar with the architecture and organization of a Chinese monastery as well as with esoteric Buddhism. The Temple of Confucius introduced travelers to the philosophy that predominated and shaped Chinese thought and society.

Before reaching Chengde, the coach stopped at Jinshanling to discover the Great Wall which, at this location, is impressive with its 11 km which follow the ridge lines of this mountainous region. Built under the Ming (1368-1644), this part is punctuated by bastions. Arriving in Chengde, the visit of the Putuozongsheng miao, a reduced but still imposing copy of the Potala (palace of the Dalai Lama in Lhasa) immersed us in a world mixing Tibetan and Chinese architecture and decorations. Commissioned by Emperor Qianlong (1711-1799) for his mother's 80th birthday and his 60th birthday, this imposing complex houses many Tibetan-shaped stupas as well as a room covered with gilded bronze tiles.

Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara (Guanyin) offered to Qianlong by the 7th Dalai Lama. Lama Temple (Yonghe Gong), Pavilion of Ten Thousand Happinesses. Camphor wood. Height 18 m. 18th century. Beijing.

The Great Wall at Jinshanling. Bricks. Ming Dynasty (1368-1644).

Putuozongsheng seen from the heights of Bishushanzhuang Park. 18th century. Chengde.

The next day, the visit continued with the summer residence of the emperors of the Qing dynasty (1644-1912), the Bishushanzhuang. Begun under Kangxi (1654-1722) and continued under Qianlong, this immense domain includes not only the imperial residence but a very large mountain park as well as a lake area punctuated by pavilions that evoke lake landscapes of southern China. The residence itself follows the traditional plan of palaces, alternating courtyards and pavilions on a South-North axis, but with an extreme simplicity of decor reflecting Kangxi's desire to impose himself as a scholar and to showcase his sobriety. This palace was to contribute to appeasing the Mongol peoples by receiving them in this northern city. Qianlong accentuated this political use of the place by building many temples of Lamaic obedience.

Puningsi Temple houses the largest wooden statue of Guanyin (Avalokitesvara), 28 meters high, while Pulesi is characterized by a strong tantric influence. The upper rotunda of this monastery, reminiscent of that of the Temple of Heaven, protects a mandala built of wood inhabited by a deity of esoteric Buddhism.

The brisk visit to the Hebei Provincial Museum allowed us to admire, among other things, the rich furnishings of the tomb of King Cuo of Zhongshan, buried in 310 BC, and the wonders of the Han tombs (206 BC-220 AD), in particular the jade shrouds of Prince Liu Sheng (2^nd s. BC) and his wife as well as the objects and chariots found in the tomb.

The Xiangtanshan Caves introduced us to the rock art of the Northern Qi Dynasty (550-577), which greatly promoted Buddhism. Thanks to Mael Bellec, we were introduced to Chinese Buddhist iconography. Unfortunately, this site was looted in the 20^nd s. which explains why many sculptures no longer have heads or hands.

Bodhisattva in the central cave of the southern group. Painted stone. 6th century. Northern Qi Dynasty (550-577). Xiangtanshan. Handan.

One of the inner courtyards of the Hôtel de l'Harmonie. 19th century. Pingyao.

Dragon columns of the Temple of the Holy Mother. Wood. Song Dynasty. 1022. Jinci Monastery. Taiyuan.

After a short trip by "TGV" and coach, we arrived in Pingyao, a city that has preserved its ramparts and its character from the Ming and Qing era. The Hôtel de l'Harmonie immersed us in the atmosphere of past centuries with its many courtyards and buildings. The city was the headquarters of the first bank in China to set up a bill of exchange system, in 1823. We were able to visit this establishment transformed into a museum and understand the complex organization of this system that made part of the city's wealth. The stroll through the streets of Pingyao was accompanied by a visit to the temples of the God of the city and that of Confucius.

Court Lady. Temple of the "Holy Mother". Painted earth. Song Dynasty. 1022. Jinci Monastery. Taiyuan.

Sakyamuni surrounded by disciples, bodhisattvas and celestial kings. Note the system of framework without columns to leave a vast space for the painted clay statues. Northern Han Dynasty (951-979). Hall of Ten Thousand Buddhas. Zhenguosi Monastery. Ping Yao.

Facade and console system supporting the roof of the East Temple. 857. Tang Dynasty (618-907)-Foguangsi Monastery. Wutai.

On the way to Taiyuan, the Zhenguosi amazed us with its remarkable architecture. The Hall of Ten Thousand Buddhas is a spectacular example of 10th century carpentry.^nd s. which still houses sculptures from the same period. The hall has no interior columns, thus leaving a vast space for sculptures and worshipers. The Chang mansion, which extends over 15 hectares, is a demonstration of the wealth of a family that engaged in trade with Russia during the Qing and where apartments, pavilions and gardens are a synthesis of Chinese private domestic architecture.

In Taiyuan City, Jinci Shrine features a group of temples, some of which date back to the Song Dynasty (960-1279). The Temple of the Holy Mother (Shengmudian), built in the early 11th^nd s. offers a façade that rests on eight columns around which dragons sculpted in high relief wind. In addition to the cult statues, the room houses a set of painted earthenware statues that show all the grace of the ladies of the Song era. These charming people are found as musicians from the Yuan era (1279-1368) in the temple of the God of War.

The temples and monasteries around Wutaishan took us back to Buddhism. The Foguangsi is remarkable for its Tang Dynasty (618-907) architecture and the group of painted earthenware sculptures dating from the Jin, Yuan and Ming. In the centre of the East Temple, Sakyamuni is surrounded by Amitabha and Maitreya, while Manjusri on a lion and Samantabhadra on an elephant occupy the extremities of the group of sculptures.

General view of Xuankongsi Monastery. Datong.

Yingxian Pagoda. Drink. Liao Dynasty (916-1125). Yin. Shanxi.

Monumental statue of Sakyamuni. Painted earth. Yingxian Pagoda. Liao Dynasty (916-1125). Yin. Shanxi.

On the way back to Datong, the hanging temple, Xuankongsi, surprises with its location on the cliff side. Although founded in the 5^nd s., what we see today is the result of multiple renovations under the Ming and Qing dynasties. The Yingxian Pagoda is one of the oldest wooden pagodas and the largest. Built in a monastic complex that has disappeared, it peaks at 67 meters. Built in 1056 under the Liao dynasty (916-1125), it is also a remarkable example of carpentry with its multiple beams and consoles supporting the six roofs. A large painted earthenware Buddha statue sits in the center of the ground floor.

The last day began with the discovery of the impressive site of the Yungang Grottoes dug under the Northern Wei (386-534). The evolution of the style between the different phases is clearly felt. Imperial patronage stopped in 494 with the move of the capital from Datong to Luoyang, but the site continued to be active. Several of the grottoes have a central pillar, decorated with sculptures, around which a circumambulation was made. Gigantic Buddhas and bodhisattvas were carved into the cliff and covered with painted mud. The grottoes preserve a multitude of niches inhabited by divine beings and some ceilings are carved with coffers populated by apsaras while others evoke the roof of a tent as can be seen in Dunhuang.

Seated Buddha and Bodhisattva. Cave 20. Stone. Northern Wei Dynasty (386-534). Yungang. Datong.

Wall of the Nine Dragons. 1329. Glazed earthenware. Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). Datong.

The Huayan Monastery contains two buildings built under the Liao and Jin that are impressive. The "upper" temple, whose façade is pierced by three rounded doors, houses three wooden Buddha statues from the Ming dynasty, the other two, from the same period, are made of painted earth. The "lower" temple was used to store sutras in cabinets arranged along the walls. The whole was restored several times under the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties. Before taking the train back to Beijing, we were able to admire the wall of the nine dragons, which is a screen wall built in front of the entrance to the palace of Prince Zhu Guidai in 1329. It is the oldest example of this type, 45 m long, it is decorated with 426 glazed and enamelled earthenware tiles.

The meals provided an opportunity to discover the full variety of Chinese cuisine with some highlights such as Beijing Peking duck, Chengde ravioli and Datong fondue.

We were fortunate to be accompanied by an outstanding national guide, Mr. Zhang Hao, and the local guides also performed their duties perfectly, with a special mention for Mr. Xiao Pengshi in Shanxi.
We would particularly like to thank Mael Bellec, chief curator at the Cernuschi Museum, who was of great help in completing the information and clarifying notions of religion, art and architecture.

The Friends group in front of the temple of "prayer for good harvests" (qí nián diàn). Beijing.

The Friends group at Foguangsi with Mr. Zhang Hao (Paul) and Mr. Xiao Pengshi (Frédéric).